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Coat by Paul Poiret

Abrigo de Paul Poiret, ca. 1920-1926. Colección Museo del Traje. Pulse para ampliar

ca. 1920-1926

Long, mid-calf length, evening coat with an outer shell of black chiffon completely covered by transparent and faded black glass beads. It has a high, slightly reinforced, collar and bat sleeves. Central opening at the front, curved bottom hem.

Smooth, black silk velvet along the neck, front, shoulder and cuff lines, and the inner lining.

Collectors call the bead decorations “clair de lune”. The embroiderers of the 20’s used wooden frames to apply these beads and often worked with a number of them on the same garment. The most elaborate, like this one, would have required weeks of work.

The silhouette designed by Poiret up to 1914 is continued in his creations of the subsequent decade, in which, contrary to the new practical fashion led by Chanel, he became stuck in an exuberant conception that flirted with the artistic (at the time, he collaborated with Raoul Dufy) without ever experiencing the same public acceptance again, although his pieces did continue to be an example of the good savoir-faire of "Le Magnifique".

Inventory: MT-103650


  • 100% siglo XX. La colección de moda contemporánea del Museo del Traje, C.I.P.E.. Madrid (m): Ministerio de Cultura, 2009. 68 y 71, fotografías.
  • El gusto moderno. Art Déco en parís, 1910-1935. Benton, Tim (ed.); Fontán Del Junco, Manuel (ed.); Zozaya, María (ed.). Madrid (m): Fundación Juan March, 2015. 365, cat. 198.